Estimated read time: 6-7 minutes
A recent social media phenomenon has teen and tween girls as young as 9 years old obsessed with caring for their skin. Their willingness to spend hours on 12-step beauty routines and their parents' money on expensive skin care products has earned them the label of "Sephora Kids." But parents wonder if it is a healthy obsession.
"I think for most people, including teens and tweens, the correct approach to skin care is to keep it simple. Most people don't need intense skin care routines," says Luke S. Johnson, MD, a dermatologist at University of Utah Health with specialized training in pediatric dermatology.
The immediacy of social media may give young girls the impression of instant results after using a combination of cleaners, creams, serums and face masks during a daily skin care routine. But Johnson warns this is rarely the outcome.
"They want to do something and see improvement the next day. But the way the skin works biologically, if we are working on changing some of those molecules and the way genes are expressed, as some of these treatments will do, then it's going to take some time," he says.
In his experience, Johnson estimates it will usually take three to four months before most people will see changes in their skin. "But some young people are looking for a quick fix," Johnson says. "They will use something for a week or two and, when they don't see any changes, they want to try something else. And that keeps feeding the social media monster."
It kind of breaks my heart as a dermatologist when I see young people who have tried a whole bunch of things for their acne or for skin care and have spent hundreds of dollars on products when they probably could have gotten better results for a lot cheaper.
–Luke S. Johnson, MD
The products that work the best for most skin types of all ages are relatively inexpensive and easily available, according to Johnson. "It kind of breaks my heart as a dermatologist when I see young people who have tried a whole bunch of things for their acne or for skin care and have spent hundreds of dollars on products when they probably could have gotten better results for a lot cheaper."
Johnson's basic skin care advice is simple, straightforward, and holds true for his tween patients all the way up to those dealing with aging skin. "A good moisturizer with sunscreen is the cornerstone of skin care," he says. "If there are other issues you are concerned about, like acne or wrinkles or pigmentary changes, then there are other things we can do as well."
No matter where you live, liberally lathering up with an SPF 30 product at least twice or more each day is the cornerstone. Here in Utah, it could be lifesaving. The state has the highest skin cancer rate in the nation. According to data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), 38.4 in every 100,000 people in Utah had melanoma in 2020, and 2.8 in every 100,000 people died from it.
"Utah has many natural characteristics and we are number one in terms of certain types of skin cancer in the nation," Johnson says. "So, we certainly have some high-risk issues." Utah's high elevation, large number of fair-skinned residents, and easy access to outdoor recreation make kids and adults of all ages more prone to sun exposure. "My kids have been wearing sunscreen since they were about six months old," Johnson adds.
Daily cleansing is also important, but Johnson says the recommendations differ by age, skin type, and activity levels. He suggests that a few baths each week is enough to keep very young children's skin clean. "Once you start producing oils and hormones, washing your skin with a gentle cleanser once a day makes a lot of sense," he adds. If kids are playing sports or wearing makeup, it would also be helpful to wash their faces again at night.
Some dermatologists warn against the use of tween products that exfoliate or contain acids and retinoids. Johnson is more concerned about costs. "They're not worth the money. I think most of them are decent products in terms of their ingredients. They can do a good job. But they probably cost 10 times more than is necessary."
In fact, Johnson encourages kids and their parents to be suspicious of any company peddling products over $20 and any routine that takes more than four steps.
Popular tween/teen products like Drunk Elephant's creams have come under scrutiny because they contain retinol. The truth is, according to Johnson, retinoids are safe for acne-prone kids.
"I love retinol. Retinol or retinoic acid and creams we prescribe like tretinoin and adapalene are good for the skin," Johnson says. "They are good for acne, scars, wrinkles, and changes in pigmentation. There are some people who even think they can protect against skin cancer."
Johnson suggests more people should probably be using retinoids. "Once you are at the age where you can start getting a little bit of acne, which is sometimes as early as 8 or 9 years old, especially in girls, it makes sense to use retinoids." These products can dry and irritate the skin if they are overused, and Johnson emphasizes that taking a break from use for a day or two should be enough for the skin to recover.
Most dermatologists worry more about the impact the skin care craze could have on a tween or teen's body image and emotional health. "The focus on superficiality and one's appearance is concerning," Johnson says. "Healthy skin, of course, is good. But there are kids who can start having real trouble with trying to look like influencers."
For now, parents can take heart in their tween's interest in good skin care that includes washing their faces and applying SPF creams and moisturizers each morning. "Keep it simple, be patient and of course, you are welcome to see a dermatologist and we can help you out," Johnson says.
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